I am in Savannah, GA and I’m willing to bet that it’s America’s most beautiful city.  Really, it’s that lovely.  It’s touristy as all hell, but you can get away from it with a little effort.  And even the touristy stuff might not be that bad.  We ate really late last night and one of our only options was the touristy Tubby’s Tank House (exactly) on River street and while it was kind of a nightmare, the fried scallops were unbelievably fresh and were some of the best I’ve ever eaten.  Taught me a thing or two about being a snobby traveler.  

Speaking of being a snobby traveler, it’s incredible how much Midnight in the Garden in of Good and Evil still dominates tourist life.  Yes, the book is great, and yes, I am going to read it again, but still.  People talk about it a lot (so do guidebooks), which I think is a little strange. The book is about local eccentrics and the unique character of the area, but seeing Savannah through that lens ends up being limiting because then you’re expecting things to be a certain way. Also, I keep getting the feeling that people are performing for me, being a little extra weird on purpose.  

A place where people felt a hundred percent genuine  was Pinkie Master’s Lounge (Pinkies) – one of my favorite bars ever.  A total dive where everyone is friendly and the PBR is perfect temperature.  Jimmy Carter announced he was running for president on the bar, as in standing on it.  There’s a plaque, on the bar.  We were told that it’s a place where no one will judge you and that they serve everyone from presidents to transvestites, and while we didn’t see either last night, we did feel very welcome. Everyone said hi to us when they walked in and bye to us when we left.  

One of the people we met is opening what sounds like will be an amazing restaurant later this summer, Crystal Beer Parlor.  Look it up if you’re in the area in late July.